Poila Boishakh 2025: The textile tale of Bengal

As Bengal ushers in a new year with the vibrance of Poila Boisakh, it’s not just mishti and music that mark the celebration but also a moment to reflect on the region’s rich cultural and artistic legacy. From the fine threads of Jamdani to the stitches of Kantha, Bengal’s textiles continue to inspire designers across the country, regardless of where they come from.

“Globally celebrated, Jamdani sarees from Dhaka showcase intricate handwoven patterns and are UNESCO-recognised. Baluchari sarees from Murshidabad depict mythological scenes, and Kantha embroidery, traditionally made from old sarees, is admired for its delicate stitching and storytelling motifs,” says designer Debarun Mukherjee.

Talking about art, the Kalighat paintings, originating in 19th-century Kolkata, reflect bold lines and satirical themes. Terracotta crafts from Bishnupur and Shantiniketan leatherwork also hold international appeal. “These art forms represent Bengal’s deep-rooted cultural aesthetics and continue to inspire designers like me, collectors, and art lovers across the globe,” he adds.

The state also has abundance of lesser-known crafts and weaves that are incredibly rich in heritage and deserve wider recognition, including Tangail Weave (West Bengal version) which has fine, airy textures and delicate motifs, Shital Pati (cool mats), made from Murta plants in Cooch Behar and parts of North Bengal. These mats are beautifully woven, smooth, and used traditionally for sitting or sleeping during hot weather. Nakshi Kantha (Ornate Embroidery), a more intricate form of Kantha, are quilts that often depict folktales, rural life, and nature in intricate detail.

“I have a great affinity for all these crafts; however, kantha and jamdani have always found a place in my design process as they are versatile, contemporary and malleable. I do hope to reinterpret the glorious bakuchari someday too,” shares designer Shruti Sancheti.

“The ‘alpana,’ a traditional folk art drawn with rice paste — is something I’ve always been fascinated by. The symmetry, fluid lines, and spiritual symbolism make it timeless. I’d love to reinterpret its patterns through embroidery or surface textures in my designs,” says designer Rashi Kapoor.

Regional crafts are more than just aesthetic traditions; they carry the soul of the culture and the legacy of generations of artisans. Preserving and promoting Bengal’s crafts in contemporary design supports sustainable livelihoods and ensures that we stay connected to our roots. “These crafts are living archives of our cultural memory, passed through generations of artisans. In a world moving swiftly towards homogenised fashion, regional crafts offer authenticity and soul,” says designer Nanki Maggo Papneja.